Yeah it was a bit ago but I remember doing what I could to maximize the points on each enemy before killing them with a higher point attack. At least on the early levels when it was easier to do.
10 seems to be the magic number to beat the previous score by.
There is still a few points to steal on this.
Reclaiming my broken trophies. Now for the next Intellivision game, after my thumb heals.
Default settings required, 5.
Yup, need up up my game on this one...
Oh, I can't let my childhood be ruined! This top score is coming home where it belongs!That is, after all my stuff gets delivered...To be continued!
As said above it is a Bally Astrocade, and even with all my random and obscure systems it is easily the coolest one I have.
The game carts are basically cassette tape shaped and you insert and eject them almost just like one. The few games I have seem to be a step above a 2600 and on par with an Intv/Colecovision.
TYhe controller is a pistol grip with the 1 button the trigger. The nob on top is a joystick style that can also be twisted to act as a paddle controller.
The Victory at the bottom shows the game is over, and the 1 in the top right shows 1 dreadnaught destroyed which shows game difficulty was set to 1. Really need to get the others setup too.
It's funny because the game let's you kill yourself most of the time. If you just wait it out instead of thinking you can get a shot in you could probably go forever.
Played with Blaze and tried to maximize score on every enemy. Her suplex/throw both give 200 points and tried to kill every enemy with those moves while using punches for enemies with less health than a throw would do before throwing them.Also farmed the final boss' minions and apparently they stop showing up after some time.Also, by Stage 3 I realized the timer was important for points when the boss died, so I'd trake an intentional death right before kiling him to maximize points.There is more points to be had as throws/suplexes would hit other enemies and kill them without giving me the 200 points for the move, though I don't know what the theoretical max score actually is for the game.
Score 3/4 of the way down on the top picture. The game annoyingly only shows the final score as it scrolls down the screen right after death so only got an image of i tby exporting a video frame.
I hate you, so very, very much.Now I have to go back and start playing this again!
It's actually really easy. A couple of wires and a dual switch is all you need. Adding support for PAL is a bit more effort and I haven't bothered with that as I don't have anything it'd use.Even overclocking the Genesis, while a bit more involved, wasn't too difficult to setup.
And loud audio warning on the youtube link, because when you play Truxton, you turn the surround sound up.
And I really wish this page didn't repeat the last command if you use back and forward commands in the browser so I'd stop double posting all the time.
Game was played on a Japanese Tatsujin cartidge. The game is exactly the same and since I had my region switch on the Genesis set to NA you can see the title screen actually says Truxton.If I changed my region switch to Japan it'd say Tatsujin. It's one of two games that I know of that actually do that since they used the exact board and had the console region determine what displays on the title screen. The game is the same no matter which way you play it.The game is also great for testing region mod switches as it displays it immediately showing you if your soldering was good or not.
Yeah saw a Multivision a few times when living in Hawaii but people wanted way too much for them and it would only output RF, which is a problem without a JP TV. I have several Mk2 and 3s, but none of the revised mk3 black Master System shell.That entire series of consoles was so confusing trying to figure out what I even had and what was made where and when and worked with what games.
Imagic, the company where they had to be doing quite a bit of drugs to come up with all the great games they made.
Yes, it is. SC-300 is just an SG-1000 Mk1 with a keyboard and composite video out, The Mk1 and 2 only have terrible RF output so its better to use a SC-3000 or Mk3.
Bottom Youtube link is the proper one. Wish it let me delete evidence.
Shouldn't be too hard, most of those deaths were me getting impatient and could have been avoided. Good luck!
Video has a 30s gap around the 30 minute mark since apparently no DSLR will record for more than 30 mins in a row. Lost video time estimated by the clock on top of the TV.
And my posts doubling, F5 seems like a bad key to use here.
Not sure why the video double posted.That game ramps up pretty dang quick. A nice Pac Man clone with a rather different spin on the genre.
Easily the most annoying score to set. This game is insane with how simple yet difficultingly frustrating it gets.I failed to set the score for a few days before accidentally doing it when messing with a new controller setup.
The video turned out terrible due to incredibly poor lighting.
Came across a lot of the older Japanese consoles/games while living in Hawaii for a few years.
Yeah I figured that keeps it simple but works.
Hah. I just looked at the last 3 digits of the file name, had two 703s next to one another.
Played on a SC-3000. Controller landed where I dropped it in disgust. Was on a pace to crush my PB 240k game and I lose all 4 ships in an easy stage.
(3+1) * 4950 = 19800
All time great and one of the few arcade cabinets I want to pickup. Ended up grabbing an XEGS because I found a random copy for the 400/800 in a box.
Played on an XEGS system.
Yeah, working on the off the wall stuff more in hope it sparks a score race or such. Need to play those during the day however, lighting makes getting a decent picture a pain.
Already had on the Darius 2, so close.
T hanks. The "outcast" systems have been put in their corner.
Lower screenshot of level 20 before it rolls over to level 21 which displays as level 1. Final level was 29 (09).